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Chébé powder might benefit your hair in other ways, but it's not going to solve all of your hair growth problems. "When dermatologists talk about hair growth, we’re talking about hair that's growing from the little bulb beneath your scalp," says Dr. Okereke. And despite all your hopes and dreams, there's nothing you can do at home to speed up the process of how quickly that strand of hair grows and emerges from your scalp.
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Petersen believes all hair types could benefit from chébé, including "curly, dry, damaged, and over-processed hair that's prone to breakage," she says. Generally, you would mix chebe powder with a carrier oil before applying to the hair (don't worry; we offer a tutorial down below), which seals in moisture and delivers fatty acids and antioxidants to the strands. But "the seeds that are used also have different types of oils in them," says Martey-Ochola. "They have an emollient, conditioning activity to them that will allow the hair to maintain its integrity from a moisturization perspective." I was very happy with the texture of the chebe powder, so the quality is great. After applying it to my hair, I braided my hair in 4 parts and left in overnight as a leave in conditioner.
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The seven-million-year-old specimen was nicknamed Toumaï, which translates to “hope of life” in Dazaga, the language of the nation’s northern regions. Since this discovery, the African country has come to be considered the cradle of humanity. Not far from Toumaï’s resting site, the writing is—literally—on the wall. "Lots of women, especially Black women with textured hair, feel their hair is not growing," says Petersen. "The ritual of chebe is documented in prehistorical rock art paintings," she explains.
How to Use Chebe Powder for Hair
The ingredient also inspired the name of a chébé beauty ritual performed by the women of the nomadic tribes of Chad, who famously have long, healthy hair. "Chébé powder is a millenia-old ancient haircare ritual from my home country, Chad," says Petersen. "Some may opt to use it as a leave-in, or in oils or butters if they are unable to utilize it as the Basara women traditionally do," explains Bailey.
She also notes that cloves have some naturally astringent properties that could help balance oil on the scalp as well—some research also touts cloves' ability to relieve itch1. —you can control your retention, meaning "how you can maintain the length of your hair and prevent breakage and hair loss," says Dr. Okereke. Loss of hair length can be caused by anything from dry, brittle hair that breaks, to brushing through your hair too hard, to using too many heat and chemical treatments, to even really bad dandruff.
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We may earn commission from links on this page, but we only recommend products we love. Packed with antioxidants and proteins, the rice water serves as an excellent conditioner. Stimulates circulation to the scalp, which helps with thickness, follicle number and follicle depth. High in fatty acids and Vitamin E which acts as a natural moisturizer. High in Vitamine E and beneficial for dry and damaged hair, promoting deep, long-lasting hydration. Ouled Badr member Acha Youssouf having Chébé powder applied to her hair.
I've tried other products to gain moisture to my hair without success but, this one is a sure bet. If used as directed, there shouldn’t be any major side effects when using chebe powder. However the color of the powder itself should be taken into consideration for those with lighter hair. "The powder is usually a dark brown color, so those that have light-colored hair may not want to use it because it would be seen in the hair if left in," says Bailey. Taylor also advises caution to those with sensitivities to natural ingredients. “Since a ton of natural products are in this, I would only suggest those with allergies just be super careful to double-check the ingredients before trying it out,” says the hairstylist.
If you want to try chebe powder but have straight hair, Taylor recommends washing it out sooner rather than later. “For straighter hair types, I would suggest not to leave it on for long, or else it will end up doing the opposite of what you intended and breaking off,” says the hairstylist. Bailey adds that finer hair types may want to avoid it using chebe powder, "because the treatment does provide moisture and may weigh fine hair down." Chébé powder is a blend of indigenous herbs named for its main ingredient, the croton gratissimus grain, which is called "chébé" in Chad.
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“I love how long and beautiful it makes my hair become.” Here, Ibrahim (left) and Petersen (right) braid a young women’s hair. For the traditional ritual of Chébé, as demonstrated here by members of the Ouled Badri and Bassara Arab tribes, Chébé seeds are grilled and then pounded with a wooden pestle and mortar into a silky fine powder. The Chébé seeds being winnowed to remove impurities at Petersen’s all-female workshop in Chad’s capital city, N’Djamena.
Master Cosmetologist and Global Education Manager at Design Essentials Alicia Bailey also boasts about the ingredient's benefits for hair. "It helps to reduce split ends and breakage, keeps the hair moisturized and extremely soft, and provides easier detangling which in turn helps with length retention," she says. Chebe Powder is a natural remedy that can benefit any type of afro-textured hair across the type 3 and type 4 hair texture spectrum. Nevertheless, the powerful properties contained in Chebe Powder can be just as beneficial for hair textures outside of this spectrum. Bailey also notes that unlike other hair masks, chebe is only applied to the hair shaft, as opposed to the scalp or roots.
The traditional ritual, also called chébé, starts with grilling the chunky brown seeds and grinding them into a powder, “a bit like you do with coffee,” Petersen explains. It’s then braided into the hair by applying alternating layers of water, the powder, and nourishing ingredients like shea butter and sesame oil to help the chébé penetrate the hair shaft—no rinsing necessary. Chadian women do this a few times a week, enlisting their mothers, sisters, or friends in the process. Traditionally, chébé is applied to the hair by alternating layers of chébé powder with layers of water, natural oils, and butters (like sesame oil and shea butter), and the process is repeated until all the hair is covered. "For women with the longest hair, the application can easily last several hours in one setting." The ritual is repeated a couple of times a week, and usually left in the hair, not rinsed out.
“Beauty-industry founders and mentors warned me not to launch with just one cream, but I wanted to concentrate on one formula that delivers.” Using the best chébé on earth ensures that it does. Though some versions of the plant grow across western and southern Africa, the most nourishing and effective chébé comes from Chad. “Chébé is something we have been doing for many, many years, learning it from our mother, grandmother, and many foremothers before them,” explains Zahra Ibrahim of the Ouled Badr tribe.
But otherwise, chebe is a universally-beneficial product, with only a few exceptions. Petersen's line in particular has taken chebe to the next level by extracting the best the ingredient has to offer and putting it into her products. Traditionally, chebe is applied to the hair two to three times a week. It is recommended to avoid the scalp when using chebe-infused products (Chebe Hair Butter, Chebe Hair Oil, Chebe Hair Paste, and Chebe Powder). Has antibacterial properties and helps keep hair hydrated for longer. Oil extracted from the seeds of the moringa tree, it contains vitamins and antioxidants that can nourish hair & improve its elasticity.
To uncover the facts and applications of the super powder, we turned to three experts to give us the full rundown. “Our women have very, very old hair rituals, and some can be traced back thousands of years through old rock art,” says Salwa Petersen, founder of a new eponymous haircare brand. The prehistoric rock paintings she’s referring to depict fashion shows, hair stylings, and rituals that revolve around chébé, a plant that’s strengthened and moisturized the hair of Chadian women for millennia. Petersen, a French and Chadian dual citizen and industry vet who’s formulated best-selling products for L’Oréal, thought someone should share the ancient practice with the world. Traditionally, the Basara women of Chad gather and take turns applying the moisturizing paste into each other's strands, while braiding each saturated section.
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